Off-grid without roughing it

The Chonchos Journal · Living here

Off-grid without roughing it

Off-grid usually means a compromise. Here it means solar panels, gravity-fed spring water and propane — which between them give you hot showers, cold beer and a laptop that stays charged. Here is exactly what works and what does not.

The short answer

Each bungalow has its own solar panels and battery bank, gravity-fed mountain spring water that never stops, and propane for the stove and most of the hot water. You get hot showers, a cold fridge, lights and charged devices. You do not get air conditioning or anything else that makes heat.

Power: solar panels and a battery bank, one set per bungalow

Lights, the fridge, and charging your phone and laptop. It is sized for comfortable use rather than unlimited use — this is a bungalow on a solar array, not a hotel on the grid.

There is no generator, which means there is no generator noise. Several days of cloud in the rainy season can draw the batteries down, so bring a headlamp each; there are candles too.

  • Runs the fridge, the lights and your devices
  • No generator, and no generator noise
  • Nothing that makes heat — no hairdryer, no electric kettle, no plug-in fan
  • A USB rechargeable fan is fine

Water: mountain spring, gravity-fed

It arrives by gravity from a spring above the property. No pumps, no chemicals, no tank to run dry. It runs cold and it runs continuously.

Hot water comes from a solar heater or an in-line gas heater depending on which bungalow you take. Every bungalow also has an outdoor shower, for rinsing the sand off before you go inside.

The tap water is tested clean. Every bungalow also has a five-gallon jug of filtered drinking water on a dispenser if you would rather not drink from the tap — one is included, and each additional jug is 200 pesos.

Gas: propane tanks

The stove, and in most bungalows the hot water, run on propane. Tanks are changed by the staff, so you will probably never think about it. If one runs out while you are here, someone is on the property from 9am to 5pm, Monday to Saturday.

Waste: everything leaves by boat

There is no collection truck, because there is no road. Trash and recycling go out by boat.

Vegetable scraps go over the rail to the land crabs, which is less a policy than a spectator sport. Meat scraps and bones are different — those go into the ocean, so they do not draw animals up to the bungalows. Septic systems are simple here, so paper goes in the bin beside the toilet, never flushed.

Connected, or not — you choose the bungalow

Four of the six have satellite Wi-Fi: Casa Sonido Del Mar, Casa Palmas, Casa Zadro and Casa Sara. Guests describe it as fast and dependable, and people have worked from it.

Casa Huesos and Casa Cactus have none at all, deliberately, and the people who book those two generally book them for that reason. Cell signal is a separate thing: it comes and goes, in some spots, and you should never count on it.

Questions people ask

Will the power actually stay on? +

In normal conditions, yes. Several days of heavy cloud in the rainy season can draw the batteries down, which is why everyone should bring a headlamp.

Can I use a hairdryer? +

No. Nothing that makes heat will run on the solar system — no hairdryer, no electric kettle, no plug-in fan. A USB rechargeable fan is fine.

Is the hot water reliable? +

Yes. Depending on the bungalow it comes from a solar heater or an in-line gas heater. Cold water never stops, because it is gravity-fed from the spring.

Can I work from here? +

From the four bungalows with satellite Wi-Fi, yes — guests have done it. Plan around the Wi-Fi rather than cell signal, which will not carry a call reliably.

Six bungalows, one coastline.

The rate is the same all year, so booking early costs you nothing and gets you the months everybody wants.

See the bungalows